Burger Wars Summer 2005 - Seeking Great Cheeseburgers June-Sept 2005
Gail Jennings
September 2005

UPDATE February 20, 2006
Just as all good things come to an end, so has the winning cheeseburger in our story. When burger and chips creator Craig Yasaka went back to KCC and new powers took over the cafeteria, changes were made and they were not for the better. The housemade potato chips that I rhapsodized over are now purchased frozen and pre-cut. The formula for the burger has changed as well. It was a brief shining moment. Those who enjoyed it can say they were one of the few privileged to taste a rare, and now extinct, treat.

The winning cheeseburger – where did it come from? Read on…

The idea for this project was planted when I got an email this past spring from a website visitor asking about cheeseburgers and where they could find the best burger on Oahu that didn't come from a national chain. I realized I didn't have a definitive answer and started thinking that I should. I grew up on a cattle ranch and beef was always an important part of our meals. However, since my parents were firm believers that childrens' taste buds were undeveloped and a steak would be unappreciated and therefore wasted on us, we ate a lot of ground beef. We had burgers, hamburger steak or meat loaf, and they had ribeye.

When I set out to do this I presumed it would take approximately a month and that it would be relatively easy. After all, what could possibly be so hard about eating lots of cheeseburgers with fries in search of the best available? Well, four months and dozens of cheeseburgers and fries later, I am wiser, five pounds chubbier and full of evangelical belief in the restorative power of a great cheeseburger. I do admit to a couple of dark weeks, though, when I didn't think I could eat another burger after some of the less than tasty offerings.

The good news is that there are some excellent cheeseburgers out there and most of them are not in the places one would expect. For purposes of the project, I set a few guidelines to follow and, for the most part, there hasn't been much deviation from the criteria.

The guidelines were as follows:
PRICE: cheeseburger and fries no more than $7.50 pre-tax
STYLE: traditional cheeseburger (not a flavored burger such as teriyaki, bbq, smoked or other dominating flavor)
TOPPINGS: traditional "salad" type toppings such as tomato, onion and lettuce only
BUN: standard burger bun but could have sesame seeds, cornmeal or some other topping
FROM: local restaurants either chain or sit-down (everyone knows what the national chain burgers taste like so we didn't include these in our project)

The price point automatically eliminated some nice choices like the awesome burger at The Pineapple Room or even at Big City Diner. When you get beyond $8 for a cheeseburger you're moving into what I consider a premium burger and that is not what we were after. I know that there are incredibly expensive burgers out there but they don't interest me - it's a cheeseburger, not a steak!

It became clear early on that this was going to be more challenging than I initially thought. Our first forays to find superior cheeseburgers were depressing - cold or stale buns, meat that was close to going off, limp toppings and sad fries were surprisingly common. I remember leaving one place and wondering what had happened to the cheeseburger, that famed food icon of America - was it a myth? I was particularly startled at the poor quality of one of the island's most famous burger joints, so much so that I actually went back twice to be sure I didn't just visit on an "off" day - I had not.

Special thanks go out to all of those who assisted in the project. I had lots of great suggestions on places to try from a variety of sources including the denizens of a couple of local on-line forums. I also owe a debt of gratitude to those who helped me eat the burgers - my usual dining partner who, as always, prefers to be anonymous, Ryan Ozawa of HawaiiThreads.com and HawaiiUp.com, another diner who also prefers to remain anonymous and Marianne Schultz, our very own food writer and bon vivant.

Without further ado, here is the list going from the worst we tried to the very best. We have tried to note the strong points of each place (some of them didn't have many and some had quite a few) and give a fair view of what an average experience would be like.

Cheeseburger Factory
Makai Food Court, Ala Moana Shopping Center

This was a late addition to the roster of candidates and I frankly wish we'd bypassed it. A new member of the local Yummy BBQ chain, the price on this is only $3.99 but, as my dining partner so eloquently put it, "There are too few meals left in my life to eat food this bad." The bun was cold, the meat was just on the edge of going off and they used thousand island dressing, not a crime in itself but when combined with the huge pieces of iceberg lettuce and unripe tomatoes, it conspired to make me think that I was eating a bad '60s era salad. Never mind that this burger was practically inedible, the service was startlingly bad. Double Cheeseburger $3.99, Fries $1.79, Total $4.78. If you want an inexpensive burger at Ala Moana Shopping Center, go to McDonald's; at least you'll know exactly what you're getting.

Kua Aina (two locations)
Ward Village, Kakaako
Haleiwa, North Shore

The bottom line is that this is one overrated burger and they are over the price limit by thirty cents. I decided to include them anyway because they are famous for their burgers and they have a reputation as the best cheeseburger in Honolulu. However, they are guilty of committing the cardinal sin against burgers, not seasoning the meat properly. If ever there is a dish which cries out for the judicious use of salt and pepper, it is a burger. Stale buns were the norm here which I found incomprehensible - where are they coming from and are they storing them for months on end? The first time I thought the tasteless meat and stale bun was a fluke but it turned out, it wasn't. And, while the fries could be good, they exhibit a consistently limp posture - put a bit of ketchup on them and they lay right down and die on you. I don't get the rave reviews about Kua Aina. 1/3 lb. Cheeseburger $6, Small Fries $1.80, Total $7.80. Save your money - go to one of our top four places and spend less money for much better food.

Kenny's
Kamehameha Shopping Center, Kapalama

I selected Kenny's as a good candidate based on a very tasty patty melt sandwich I had enjoyed there last year. Since a patty melt is really just a cheeseburger with swiss cheese and grilled onion on rye bread, I figured they probably did a decent cheeseburger. Since then Kenny's has been renovated, the menu revamped and prices have gone up. The bad news is that the quality doesn't justify the price. This burger is right at the limit of our price range, so if you must spend this much, go to Big City Diner or The Pineapple Room and get a premium burger. Cheeseburger Deluxe with Fries $7.49.

Like Like Drive In
745 Keeamoku St, Ala Moana

The good points are the burger is hand-formed and well-seasoned. Unfortunately, the care taken to form and season it is all but lost when it's slapped on the grill and flattened to within a hair's breadth of being burnt. A side order of fries will set you back $2.60 - which is a pretty penny for an order of pre-cooked, frozen and deep-fried potatoes. My dining partner had a classic lunch special here and it was a much better choice. I wouldn't order a burger here in the future. Cheeseburger $4.20, Fries $2.60, Total $6.80.

Of the next three places, New Diner's Drive-In, Teddy's Bigger Burgers and Nico's at Pier 38, there is very little difference between them and I'd make a decision to have one of these burgers based on where I happened to be or what time it was when I decided a cheeseburger was a necessity. Nico's has a great view of the harbor, New Diner's is open 24/7 and Teddy's has three locations. The cheeseburgers are all good, but Teddy's does have an edge with the fries as theirs are the best of these three.

New Diner’s Drive-In
1333 N. King St, Kalihi

Who would have thought that a $4.15 cheeseburger from a Korean-owned 24/7 local-style drive-in on North King Street in Kalihi would almost take top honors? I pulled in here with few, if any, expectations about the food. The sign fronting the road is new and bright, but the menu and the prices are a throwback to a different time. You stand at the window and order your meal. There is a dining room you can take your food into but most people get take-out. I ordered the Monster Half-Pounder which came with cheese, lettuce, tomato, onion and a tasty sauce. I also ordered water and rather than sell me bottled water as is so typical these days (don't get me started on what I consider one of the greatest scams of modern times), they gave me a 12 ounce cup filled with ice and tap water which suited me, and my budget, just fine. Monster Half-Pounder Cheeseburger $4.15, Small Fries $1.30, Total $5.45.

Teddy's Bigger Burgers (three locations)
Koko Marina, Hawaii Kai
Kailua Village Shops, Kailua
Waikiki Grand Hotel, Waikiki

Teddy's delivers a quality burger at a good price - consistent seasoning with quality toppings. Teddy's finished very high in the rankings and he takes the top spot of any of the local chain restaurants for tasty burgers. I'd eat another Teddy's burger without thinking twice about it. A strong point for Teddy's is the french fries; they were the best fries of all of the places we tried. Overall, a very decent meal in a cheerful, clean and comfortable shop. Teddy's also has the advantage of several locations with shops in Kailua, Hawaii Kai and his newest spot at the Diamond Head end of Waikiki. It's a cash-only operation so be prepared with your dollars in hand. 7 ounce Cheeseburger $5.15, Small Fries $1.65, Total $6.80.

Nico's at Pier 38
Pier 38, Iwilei

Nico's is located right next to the fish auction and this spot was built to serve fresh fish to workers in the neighborhood. We first went there on the advice of Marianne Schultz and intended to eat fish. I spotted the Double Cheeseburger on the menu and insisted that we order it. It was a good move and subsequent visits have established this cheeseburger as a seriously good burger. There was a brief foray by Nico into the realm of pre-formed burgers, but they quickly went the way of the dodo bird when customers raised the roof. The Double Cheeseburger comes on a standard bun with green leaf lettuce, tomato, red onion and cheddar cheese. It is now designated as the "Employee Favorite" on the menu and comes with a standard side of fries which are not remarkable.

The thing that keeps Nico's from taking the top spot is inconsistency. The meat is sometimes over or under seasoned and it is occasionally overcooked. Consistent delivery and maintaining a high standard of quality is the most difficult thing for a restaurant, but it is the most important. The good news is that even when their cheeseburger isn't done perfectly, it is still better than most. You also can't beat the view of the working harbor. It's a pleasant place to sit and enjoy an outdoor meal. Double Cheeseburger with Fries $5.75.

Now we come to the what I believe is the best cheeseburger in Honolulu right now. Kulia Grill is only open Monday-Friday from 7am-4pm (and the burgers aren't served until 11am) so it's not a place you can pop into anytime. However, this is the one place that it is actually worth taking the time to go and enjoy their cheeseburger. That is what sets them apart from the three almost-rans, the burger is worth spending the gas!

Kulia Grill
John A. Burns Medical School, Kakaako

Kulia Grill takes top honors for the best cheeseburger in our Burger Wars Summer 2005. For $4.20 you get a cheeseburger made from premium grass fed North Shore Cattle Co. beef topped with green leaf lettuce, two kinds of cheese (swiss and american), juicy red tomatoes and red onions on an onion-topped bun - this is a burger with serious wow factor. It only gets better, though, with the addition of truly amazing house-made potato chips for $1.95. You can get decent french fries for the same price but you really should get the potato chips. The meat has the unique beef flavor that only comes from grass fed cattle. The ground beef is carefully seasoned and perfectly cooked, so it is never overdone or dry. The potato chips were an experiment which turned out so well, they are now prepared daily.

We picked up a couple of these burgers with potato chips for an outdoor meeting at the adjacent Kakaako Beach Park and the food attracted a good deal of attention. Fellow attendees looked forlornly at their Subway sandwiches and plate lunches while we noshed on Honolulu's best burger and potato combo. I actually felt guilty about it and comforted myself by making sure everyone knew exactly where to get their very own combo next time.

Kulia Grill is located in the ultra-modern John A. Burns Medial School building in Kakaako and is run by the Kapiolani Community College culinary staff. Since Kulia Grill is essentially the cafeteria for the medical school, most of their customers are students, staff and faculty, though the public is welcome and even encouraged to eat here. The physical space of Kulia Grill is nice; there are floor-to-ceiling glass windows, plenty of seating and, if you prefer to dine outside, there is a large lanai area. Kulia Grill is another cash-only operation so be prepared as the nearest ATM is a bit of a hike.

Upon concluding that Kulia Grill offered the best cheeseburger in town, I spoke with chef de cuisine, Craig Yasaka, and asked him the secret to this exceptional burger. He refused to believe that it was actually better than Teddy's until I started enumerating the reasons why it had been selected. Craig believes that it is the quality of the ground beef, the careful handling of the meat to avoid over manipulation and the use of quality ingredients for toppings that make it so good. I believe that is part of it, but Kulia Grill succeeds because of the consistent delivery of a quality product. I've had more than a half-dozen of these cheeseburgers and there has never been a misstep. Craig says that they are a top-seller every day at the cafeteria.

You can tell when people take pride in their work and this comes through when you see the crew at Kulia Grill. It's a small group but they work hard to ensure that the food they serve is prepared in the best manner possible. This is the burger worth the effort to eat and the winner of the HawaiiDiner.com Burger Project Summer 2005 - congratulations to everyone at Kulia Grill!