The State of Honolulu Fine Dining Circa Late Summer/Early Autumn 2006
Gail Jennings
October 2006

I spent the summer of 2005 seeking the best cheeseburger on Oahu. Strict criteria was imposed and the search went on for more than three months. The results were chronicled in a nearly 3,000 word article where we named names and awarded honors to what we considered the best cheeseburgers during that snapshot of time. Since then, many things have changed on the cheeseburger scene but I presently feel no urge to re-visit 'burger world'. [Photo: Bali by the Sea at the Hilton Hawaiian Village. Photo courtesy of HHV]

This summer brought another, very different, opportunity which involved evaluating existing ratings for many of the major fine dining outlets on Oahu. Full disclosure must be made and it is important to note that these were all meals that I did not pay for (other than tips) and the dining was done as part of a contract with another entity. Nonetheless, I hope that readers will appreciate my observations, comments and conclusions. The yardstick I use for measurement is simple: would I spend my own money to eat there again?

As I look back on the past two summers' projects, I am struck by the similarities between both efforts despite the rather apparent differences in price, ambiance and service. In both instances I found a famous, highly touted name to be sorely lacking, a less recognized gem that many don't know or think about and stalwarts that can be depended upon to deliver a superior dining experience. I know full well that this article will upset some, validate those who happen to agree and, hopefully, provoke some lively conversation. Without further ado take a look at this fine dining snapshot.

There was no dining experience in recent memory that we so anticipated as our meal at La Mer in the Halekulani. La Mer is replete with stars awarded by many entities and gets lots of great press, but our experience there left us wondering if maybe we just didn't understand or appreciate French haute cuisine. We actually speculated on whether it really just didn't taste very good or, heaven forbid, our palates were simply too bourgeois. A darker thought intruded as well: perhaps they were deliberately sending out inferior food to torment us knowing that I couldn't write anything truly negative for the party I represented? One example: a seared scallop perched on a parmesan cracker dotted with flecks of bittersweet Valhrona chocolate atop a mango-ginger confit accompanied with a lobster and chocolate (Valhrona again) sauce left us wondering who would actually think this tastes good? The flavors not only didn't work together, they actively fought for dominance. Sadly, there were no winners on this plate. In fact, there were no winners on the entire nine-course tasting menu. In retrospect, perhaps our expectations were too high, though that's a hard argument to make, what with the cost of dining at La Mer and the stellar public reputation. Subsequent conversations with trusted colleagues and people inside the food and beverage world here revealed strikingly similar experiences to ours. Not surprisingly, no one was willing to go on the record which explains how the myth of excellence is perpetuated. I never did write the review for the other publication telling them it would be simply impossible to write anything positive about the food. On the plus side, the setting is truly lovely and the service spot-on. Recommended for those who equate spending a lot of money with dining well.

Our next stop restored order to our culinary world. Chef George Mavrothalassatis and his excellent team never rest in their efforts to bring something inspiring to the table. Regular readers know that Chef Mavro has been a favorite of mine since I first dined there and each subsequent meal reinforces my belief that this restaurant is the only spot in town for those who crave new food experiences as each seasonal menu offers an opportunity to be dusted with culinary magic. That is not to say that each and every dish is sublime, but rather that a meal at Chef Mavro will allow me to taste a familiar ingredient in a whole new way that is often sublime. This visit it was a deceptively simple dish of marbled tako which somehow managed to capture every flavor of the ocean in a single bite - the clean crisp essence of deep ocean water, the bracing rush of salt-tanged air and the briny aroma of the shoreline. The tako was beautifully presented as well, so thinly sliced each piece was translucent as a wafer of mother-of pearl. The thoughtfulness required to conceive of such a dish, the work that goes into testing the various possibilities and the spark of genius which knows when the dish is perfect, converge in the kitchen of this world-class restaurant. Subtle, elegant and exquisite food - it's what I love about Chef Mavro. Recommended for those who like to step into a culinary looking glass where ingredients are just the beginning.

We pressed on to Hoku's with anticipation in no small part due to the renovated dining room and revamped menu. Long a bastion of Hawaii Regional Cuisine created by the very talented Wayne Hirabayashi, the restaurant now leans to contemporary American and seafood without losing its Asian influence. The meal was a delight from start to finish. A perfect example of the refined menu was a dish of foie gras and duck confit ravioli cunningly presented in a bowl with dried carrot shavings which became 'noodles' when the intensely flavored duck broth was poured over the savory pillows of ravioli. A hint of Chinese five-spice enticed but never bludgeoned. I asked Chef Wayne if the transition to a simpler style was difficult and he replied that it forced him to focus on intensifying flavors. I say he has done a fine job. The renovation has created a stunning dining room as well. The warm orange hue of the new menu, the rich dark chocolate touches, ebony chopsticks with sterling silver tips and gloriously glowing wooden floor are modern fine dining ambiance at its best. The only sour note in this mix is the outrageously priced wine list - you don't need to gouge the patrons to prove that you're a fine dining restaurant. Recommended for just about anyone who loves fine food served in a perfectly elegant setting.

Bali by the Sea may be the best kept fine dining secret in Honolulu. This ocean front restaurant at the Hilton Hawaiian Village is rarely mentioned when I ask people where they like to go for gourmet dining. If you haven't been in a while, or have never been there, it is time to make reservations to check out the stellar food coming from the kitchen of chef Adam Hightower. There was nary a bad dish served that evening but when I return I will focus on the seafood for they evidently spare no expense to get the best quality fish. You will not suffer the fate of inferior seafood at Bali by the Sea and this sets it apart from some other fine dining spots. A must-try is the Scallion Crusted Ahi Tempura which features melt-in-your-mouth ahi. This sublime fish is cloaked in a crunchy cloud of scallion-dotted tempura batter which betrays nary a hint of excess oil and is served with Molokai purple sweet potatoes and ponzu beurre blanc. This dish is a triumph of delicately balanced texture and flavor. I have heard the complaints that the dining room is outdated and "too eighties" (like that's a bad thing) but I found the setting comfortable, slightly kitchsy and charming. The service was incomparable, possibly the best we experienced, and the ocean front setting is unrivaled. Recommended for those who like plenty of space between themselves and fellow diners and who love fine seafood.

It was only after this most recent dining experience at Alan Wong's that I finally understand why this restaurant is so popular. My prior visits left me scratching my head trying to comprehend why the place is packed virtually every night. Alan Wong's speaks to the very soul of the local patron; the siren call of familiar flavors done superbly well cannot be denied. The taste of li hing mui, ginger and soy appeal to a vast array of diners whether they hail from Hawaii, Japan or middle America. To locals they are comfortingly familiar and to visitors they are exotic - it's a potent combination which has ensured success for Alan Wong's. We sat at the Chef's Counter and it was great fun to watch the well-orchestrated cooking ballet that ensues when a kitchen staff is perfectly attuned, one to another. The menu retains the classic dishes that are so loved, but I encourage you to venture out into some of the daily specials, which could be a steamed moi with pork hash, gingered vegetables and soy truffle nage or foie gras with li hing mui chutney. The wine list is carefully crafted to complement the cuisine and the staff is confident in their recommendations. You'll enjoy the food created by this team wearing baseball caps emblazoned with "The Wong Way" and appreciate, as I came to, what is right about "The Wong Way". Recommended for those who love the flavors of Hawaii and enjoy dining well in a more casual and lively setting.

[Editor's Note: The Bistro has closed while they look for a new location. 2/2007] There is no other choice in town for classic fine dining than The Bistro at Century Center. It's a wonderful thing that they do it so very well. I have heard those who complain that they don't know they're in Hawaii when they dine at The Bistro. My response has always been "So, we who live here aren't allowed to have classic fine dining? Explain to me why that is." At The Bistro you are never annoyed at fellow patrons, the servers or the food. Everything happens seamlessly and you, the diner, are ensconced in a lovely world of highly polished dark wood, leather banquettes, fine art and old school French service from start to finish. Here, they understand that escargot is nothing so much as a delivery vehicle for butter and garlic and that Steak Diane and Cherries Jubilee should be prepared tableside with subtle flair and finesse. Less traditional but equally delicious are impossibly plump and perfectly cooked scallops held captive in the crispy whorls of potato strings with a citrus-infused beurre blanc or a Berkshire pork chop stuffed with apples and foie gras served with butternut squash gnocchi. The wine list features many by the glass choices and this is the only fine dining place open throughout the afternoon and late into the evening. Pop in for a late afternoon bowl of French onion soup (perfectly done, of course) or a late night snack of steak tartare. Recommended for those who appreciate quiet elegance, fine food and service that makes one feel that the restaurant truly appreciates your patronage.

So, what are my conclusions? First, we are most fortunate to have choices that run the gamut from Hawaii Regional Cuisine to classic fine dining with stops in-between. Second, I look forward to dining at Chef Mavro, Bali by the Sea and The Bistro at Century Center as soon as I can save enough money to get there on my own dime. Third, while I very much enjoyed Hoku's the cost of the wine would keep me away. Fourth, I can see taking visiting foodie friends to Alan Wong's and sitting at the Chef's Counter. Lastly, La Mer - not unless someone I trust can convince me that things have improved and they're footing the bill.