A Conversation with Juan Madrigal, Chef/Proprietor of El Charro
Gail Jennings & Marianne Schultz
August 2004

For true food lovers there is nothing quite so satisfying as meeting a chef who embodies the culinary ideals of great passion and strong philosophy from which their cooking evolves. Juan Carlos Madrigal, chef/proprietor of El Charro, exemplifies these ideals and much more. His is a story of the American Dream fueled by faith, hard work, perseverance and food. This dream is currently realized at El Charro, and in his beloved family, though we suspect his dreams and cooking will carry him even further. Already he has had to expand into the space next door knocking out the wall to create more dining area and the ability to host private parties.

Born some 41 years ago in the Mexican state of Jalisco not far from Guadalajara, his family immigrated to Chicago when he was ten years old. He said that while he loved to eat as a child and his mother cooked good food for the family, he was not one of those who constantly watched what she was doing. He may not have been watching but his tastes were definitely influenced and his memories are reflected in some of the dishes offered at El Charro most notably his Chile Rellanos done "Mama-Style." Inspired by another childhood favorite and "to this day I can sit and eat just this sauce with chips" is his El Charro brand hot sauce recently bottled and soon available on market shelves; an even-balanced blend of many peppers including guajillo and pasilla, and at present found on the tables of his restaurant.

His culinary adventure had humble beginnings as a dishwasher in a Chicago restaurant at the age of 16. Thus began a journey which would lead him from Chicago to Colorado, then Texas and eventually to Hawaii. Along the way he learned a great deal about many different cuisines, but especially about Italian and Hungarian. Though quite different from Mexican food, you can sense the impact these experiences had in the richness and depth of flavor found in his cooking. For Juan it was all about "OJT" - on the job training, making the most of his time on the line working his way up to executive chef positions in restaurants and a country club in Colorado Springs.

Over the years, he says his cooking has become simpler and oriented more to what is called "casera" or home-style, relying on strong, well-focused flavors dominated by spices like cumin and garlic and a variety of peppers which deliver more flavor than heat. This stated simplicity belies the complexity of the fabulous Carne de Puerco en Chile Rojo, described on the menu as "pork meat with homemade red chile sauce..." or the Pollo a la Parilla con Rajas which features grilled chicken and poblano chiles in a cream sauce. Words do not adequately describe these dishes - you really just need to go try them for yourself.

While he makes light of them, it is apparent that he has overcome serious challenges to arrive at where he is today, not the least of which was a life-threatening bout with heart disease. At the age of 38, and just three weeks before El Charro was scheduled to open, he required an emergency angioplasty. A couple of days later all he wanted was to get back to work. He told the doctor he had to release him as he had a restaurant to open. In the face of such determination, the doctor had no choice but to send him on his way. This brush with mortality has clearly deepened his appreciation for life and it is obvious that he considers each day a blessing. This attitude permeates everything around him.

Another impact of his personal health crisis was a lightening up of certain dishes and the way they are prepared. While enjoying his refried beans, we commented that they must surely have lard in them to achieve their creamy texture and full-bodied flavor. We were surprised to discover that this is not the case. While he wouldn't say how he does it, he assured us there is no lard used. He also mentioned the housemade flan as an example of a much lighter dish than the classic Mexican recipe which uses literally dozens of egg yolks.

As a final note, and one which will be appreciated by anyone who has ever hosted a dinner party, Juan has a strong background as a caterer. He continues to offer catering services and takes great pride in stating that, "...when we leave the house you'll never even know there was party." Friend and hostess extraordinaire, Marianne Schultz, vouches for this and says Juan does truly amazing things with his food, service and attention to detail.

We look forward to many more great meals with Juan at El Charro and wherever his dreams and opportunity will lead him.